A Sicilian Summer (What and What Not to See), A Sardinian Gem, and San Francisco’s Hottest New Bar.
Experience: Bar Morgana, Taormina, Sicily
Recently, during my trip to Sicily, I found myself in Taormina, drawn here by the buzz around The White Lotus. While the town itself is probably worth just a day or two to explore the well-known sites, I quickly discovered it was crowded beyond belief. Despite that, I enjoyed some fantastic food and had a great time.
But what truly left an impression on me was Bar Morgana — possibly the most beautiful bar I’ve ever encountered. No matter where it might be in the world, I would still say it stands unmatched. The décor is nothing short of spectacular, with every detail meticulously crafted, right down to the bartenders’ and staff’s outfits.
After my amazement, I learned that this bar closes every January through March for over 20 years, undergoing a complete redesign from floor to ceiling each time. An employee showed me photos from past iterations, and it’s clear that Bar Morgana has mastered the art of making a space an experience- over and over again. The staff can occasionally come off a bit full of themselves—maybe an island thing—but when the place looks that incredible, it’s hard to blame them.
If you find yourself in Taormina, don’t miss a visit to Bar Morgana. It’s not just a bar; it’s an experience.
Cefalú Beach
Eat Here: La Brace, Cefalu, Sicily
Kick off your Sicilian adventure by strolling through the island’s enchanting, winding streets of Cefalú, where the locals’ warmth and laid-back vibe instantly make you feel like part of the community. Nestled along a stunning gulf with golden beaches and dramatic cliffs, the island’s charm is undeniable.
It was this magical setting that captured the hearts of Dietmar Beckers, a Dutchman, and Thea de Haan, of Dutch-Indonesian descent, in 1976. Smitten by the area’s allure, they settled here and opened La Brace, a warm, inviting restaurant just a short walk from the town’s historic center.
Food lovers will not be disappointed. This highly acclaimed spot, often hailed as Michelin-worthy in reviews, delivers creative and refined dishes that fuse Sicilian classics with clever innovations—think starters like bruschette topped with marinated anchovies, pine nuts, and tomatoes or gratinated mushrooms; primi such as rigatoni al rustico with their signature ragù (a hearty, slow-simmered meat sauce bursting with flavor); mains including Sicilian stuffed meat rolls, turkey filet in cherry sauce, or swordfish kabobs with lemon-mustard glaze; and homemade desserts like tiramisu or panna cotta. It’s all paired with a thoughtfully curated wine list offering quality bottles at fair prices, while the courteous, attentive service makes you feel right at home for a truly memorable meal.
Pro tip: Make reservations at least a couple nights ahead, or you may be begging for a 10:15pm spot if you’re lucky.
Stay Here: Su Gologone, Sardinia, Italy
When you think of Sardinia, you envision the turquoise waters surrounding this large, majestic, and mysterious island. Stories about bandits in the neighboring towns have long been a mix of humor and seriousness. One summer, following in Anthony Bourdain’s footsteps, I visited all the spots he believed made Sardinia special.
Upon booking my stay at this beautiful hotel, I realized I was heading inland, deep into the mountains. Although I was a bit apprehensive during the first 20 minutes on my Vespa, carrying nothing but a duffel bag, I discovered an incomparable gem that checked every box. Watching traditional bread being made by nuns and witnessing spit-roasted pigs offered a glimpse into the generations-old traditions they uphold. The experience of eating and drinking amazing meats, cheeses, and wine was unforgettable—I was hooked.
While Costa Smeralda receives most of the buzz—and is worth exploring by boat—don’t miss your time on land at Su Gologone. There are plenty of nearby beaches to explore, yet you can also unwind with beautiful views in a setting where old-world charm meets an artistic hotel vibe.
Learn more about Su Gologone here.
Drink Here: Bar Darling, San Francisco, Ca
There’s a new spot causing well-deserved lines in the Marina District of San Francisco — and this one’s more than just a pretty face. Bar Darling, brought to life by Jamal Blake-Williams and Nate Valentine, folds the wild, rugged mood of Northern California right into its bones. Step inside and those earthy finishes, hand-painted tree murals, and lush patio blooming with a legit native manzanita make you feel instantly at home—even if your “home” is usually a windswept hike or a cozy cabin up the coast.
“Darling” isn’t just part of the name—it’s a feeling, a tribute to family history, warmth, and a little nostalgia. Cocktails on the menu nod to a nickname or term of endearment of the owners family. Favorites like the Kiki & Coco (rum, coconut, sunflower, citrus) are garden-bright and supremely sippable, matched by plates meant to bring people together: think brie pastry bites, albacore on crispy rice, and spinach phyllo tarts, all designed for easy sharing (forks optional, friends essential).
Pro tip: Visit early to grab a spot at the striking oak bar—crafted to echo the founders’ backyard roots—or sneak out back for a golden hour cocktail among the local greenery. Whether a quick drink or slow evening, Bar Darling welcomes all with warmth and style.
Personal history: Back in kindergarten, growing up out in West Marin, David was welcomed by Jamal (owner of Bar Darling, Peacekeeper, Harper and Rye, and other hotspots) , then a 5th grader, who became his ‘big brother’ and helped him settle into those first days at a new school. Years later, Jamal’s signature hospitality showed up again—acclimating David past the giant line at Bar Darling’s opening to reveal the stunning new space. Some things don’t change: Jamal’s warmth and generosity are as present now as ever, making him a standout in San Francisco’s drinks and food scene.
Stylist Spotlight: Gaelan Neil
Well, I’m sure I could find some typical head shot or other photo of this month’s stylist spotlight on Gaelan Neil, but this is still my personal favorite . I shot this over 10 years ago late on Halloween in the city, as we were on our way home from celebrating another of our stylists’ birthday (my brother Daniel who also happens to be best buds with Gaelan). This photo somes up Gaelan well - he’s an absolute character, who’s funny even when he’s not trying to be. When it comes to hair, he is all business. Inspired by modern sassoon bobs, and avante garde styling, he’s precise, thoughtful, and will tell you what he’s doing, and why to help educate you more about your hair. Book now and see what Gaelan can do for your hair.
Now Listening: Zimmer90 - feel like we used to, Interior.
‘Feel Like We Used To’ is a standout track from Zimmer90’s debut album Interiors, showcasing the duo’s smooth blend of melody and mood. Based in Stuttgart, Josch and Finn have a clear sense of style that matches their music — understated, modern, and effortlessly cool. Their songs carry an easy warmth that feels just right for fall, when the days grow shorter and the air turns crisp. Interiors is full of tracks made for this season, with sounds that feel both fresh and familiar.